Image shows the disused platform of Cromford Railway Station, and part of the ironwork bridge crossing the tracks. The clock of the old platform is still working. The space is now used as a holiday flat.

Friend or Foe?

The Derbyshire Dales are undoubtedly beautiful. Walk the rich landscapes, fly over in a cable car or duck into the once gloomy mines. Head to ancient mills transformed into museums, performance spaces, and gorgeous antique markets. Visit its many artisan giftshops and old style pubs. And for true animal lovers and environmentalists, visit the World Wildlife Fund’s renovation project at Aqueduct Cottage in Cromford. There’s certainly plenty to occupy yourself with while you’re there.

But in an area chock-full of sheep and cheese, can vegans truly expect a warm welcome?

Image shows two small leafless trees and a dark hilltop, silhouetted against a blue sky at Cromford

Well – perhaps not everywhere. Yet. Matlock Bath’s main street for example, currently hosts around twenty fish and chip shops – mind boggling in a land-locked county, but utterly dismaying as a vegan! And rambling past fields of sheep is tough, let’s be honest, when all you’ve learned about animal agriculture replaces Dvorak’s Largo in your head with something more akin to Violence Unimagined by Cannibal Corpse.

But on a recent visit there, I found that in catering terms at least, attitudes towards veganism have progressed almost beyond comprehension. In most establishments, I encountered a really positive outlook on providing for ALL guests. Few places are fully vegan – but nearly every place I saw had something, even if it was just an accidentally vegan jacket spud and beans, on the menu.

Here’s a rundown of the best we found.

Sin Carne Cantina

190 South Parade, Matlock DE4 3NR

#vegan derbyshire Image shows exterior of Sin Carne Cafe with two cat logos on the French windows. A customer is arriving wearing a purple hat and rucksack.

Clearly, pole position goes to Matlock’s only fully vegan restaurant. Tucked away in a cute side street off the main thoroughfare, Sin Carne serves all sorts from burritos to Buddha bowls – and has a stylish kids’ menu too, so everyone can join the fun.

It’s bright and welcoming, making full use of the natural light, and the coffee is good.

Pricing is really competitive, and the food beautifully presented. It’s also open on Sundays for lunch.

A definite recommend.

Scarthin Books Café

The Promenade, Cromford, Matlock DE4 3QF

#veganderbyshire Image shows Scarthin Books vegan brunch of roasted tofu on soda bread with roast tomatoes and peppers

Every time I visit this perfect shop I feel like I’ve died and gone to heaven.

A bijous space expertly curated with the best reads imaginable, local guides, a gorgeous room full of weighty art books – and the friendliest cat in all Christendom (Beano). I cannot imagine a more ‘me’ place than this!

I make a bee-line for it every time. But the books are just half the story, because if you can squeeze yourself upstairs and through the almost secret passageway, there’s a tiny place to eat there too.

The menu contains lots of vegan options, with at least one soup or salad, plenty of cakes and a ton of yummy drinks with every type of plant milk you might fancy. Plus their coffee travels just a few miles up the road from Buxton Coffee Roasters and includes some really lovely flavours. I drank the Blend 47 which was just perfect with brunch.

We tried the red lentil and bean soup, and vegan breakfast (spicy tofu and wilted spinach on soda bread toast with roasted tomatoes and peppers). Both were delicious. Honestly? It’s worth visiting just to look at the eclectic stuff on their walls, including a portrait of the store’s founder, Nick Scarthin. But the great food and upbeat vibe make it *really special*.

The only downside – and it is a biggy – is that this ancient building is not, nor ever could be, wheelchair accessible.

The Tor Cafe

Derby Rd, Cromford, Matlock DE4 3RP

We had a tricky start to our visit here. It was siling it down with rain and some huge puddles were forming on the busy lorry route outside. And 20minutes after the official opening time there was still no sign of anyone in there. But we persevered and are so glad we did.

You can order the vegan breakfast all day and OH MY DAYS is it good?!

Beans, tomatoes, toast (with vegan spread), hash browns, vegan haggis, sausage and mushrooms. And a big ole mug of tea or coffee. I don’t know how I fitted it all in – but I did it! Well done me!

If you don’t fancy anything off the main menu, they can easily mix and match, and prices are really good. We went back the following day and had just a sausage sandwich (three sausages!!), and haggis and mushrooms on toast – both fab!

We also discovered that although the menu says instant coffee comes with breakfast, if you ask for a real filtered coffee, they’ll make up a cafetiere with a fairly decent brew inside it for you!

It really is tiny – and the busy décor makes it feel even tinier – but there’s more space in the repurposed railway carriage up the stairs. They welcome walkers, cyclists and dogs – and we saw plenty of them in there!

Twenty Ten

16 Dale Rd, Matlock DE4 3LT

#veganderbyshire Image shows pie, roast potatoes and peas in a metal bowl

We’d been antiques hunting all morning and only went in here for a beer and to get out of the building rain. But as it’s so friendly we stayed for lunch too.

The menu was from Pieminister, so – pies with just about every accompaniment imaginable. I chose the Mooless Moo, with peas and roast potatoes which were perfection (so many petit pois!!)! They had no vegan gravy – but with such ample pie fillings that’s not a deal breaker for me. I’m hoping it will be on the menu soon for those who can’t imagine pie without it though!

My photo doesn’t do the food enough justice. Well cooked, well presented it really hit the spot – and we were pleasantly sleepy once we’d finished. There were loads of vegan beers to choose from, including Freedom on draft, which I’ve not seen for ages!

The highlight in here (apart from the number of sleepy dogs) was our barmaid and waitress. Attentive and fun, she seemed to know just about everyone who followed us in. She imbued genuine pleasure in finding things out about the wares for her customers. She was truly one of the nicest bar tenders I’ve met in years.

I imagine it gets very busy when there’s a big match on, (there were tell-tale signs of a screen at the end of the pub). But for a lunchtime snifter, and a filling meal I wholeheartedly recommend.

The pub itself was accessible by wheelchair, but not (I don’t think) the loos. So bear that in mind before you visit.

The Greyhound

Market Place, Cromford, Matlock DE4 3QE

I’ll be honest, this place didn’t get everything right and almost didn’t make it into my blog. Their Dessert section is more ‘Desert Section’, with absolutely nowt on it for vegans AT ALL! Their indoor pizza oven had probably never even heard of vegan pizza. There was a positively territorial staff attitude towards the eating area that left me steaming at the ears.

We stayed in a beautifully appointed guestroom. But again, zero concessions had been made for vegans. The tea-making facilities consisted of cow’s milk (plastic) pots, and (plastic) drinks sachets by Nescafe (BOOOOO!). The free toiletries weren’t ethical/animal friendly.

They offered a ‘vegan options’ breakfast, but we skipped that after our piss-poor treatment at dinner on the Friday, (too long a story for here) – so I can’t vouch for it. I also noticed one wheelchair user having to slide down the steep steps from his room to the bar on his bottom as there was no stairlift or accessible bedrooms.

HOWEVER… The vegan burger really was delicious. The fries were very nice; the coleslaw was vegan. They’d made the hummus in-house too: its freshness was obvious and tasty. There were plenty of bar snacks to choose from, the soup of the day was vegan both days we were there, and there was a butternut risotto starter that looked quite nice too.

Image shows a Matlock cottage tucked into the lush tree covered hillsides at Matlock Bath — Autumnal scene at Cromford

The wine and spirits selection was great, with lots of local tipples to try. And the pub itself had a classy vibe, tastefully hinting at its connections with Richard Arkwright, who founded Cromford Mill and presumably patronised the inn in his time.

As a listed building, whilst its bedrooms were not wheelchair accessible most of the bar/dining area was, and there was a smart and well-stocked disabled loo for customers.

So, for a fancy burger and pretty room for the night, (if you don’t mind being treated like muck afterwards), this is your place! Perhaps by the time you stay there, my feedback card comments will have been taken on board!

Kefi Cafe

3 Snitterton Rd, Matlock DE4 3LZ

This is a sweet little place with solid menu options for gluten free and vegan diners.

Their cakes are really pretty and there’s usually one for vegans when I’ve visited before – although most of the menu is vegetarian not vegan.

It’s really busy here too – great for arrivals by bus, rail, or those crossing the bridge over the Derwent from the main town. It’s a fabulous stopping-off point if you’re planning a steam train ride too, as the platform is literally round the corner.

Whenever my mum visits Matlock she pops in here, and I can totally see why. It’s bright and breezy and the trendy ‘afternoon tea-ness’ about it is definitely her style! It also has seats inside and out, so is understandably popular in warmer months.

They’re not shy about blowing their own trumpet either – we spotted this sign in the main town. But with a well deserved reputation like theirs, why wouldn’t they?

Fig Cafe

2 North Parade, Matlock Bath, Matlock DE4 3NS

#veganderbyshire Image shows busy exterior tables under parasols, of the Fig Coffee House in Matlock with two bay windows on the first floor painted pale blue. Customers sit on chairs of neon orange and lime green.

Not a vegan café by any means, and if you’re sensitive to seeing others eat ‘faffy’ meat products, I’d give it a wide berth.

But all the same, at the end of a line of fish shops, The Fig can be a welcome sight. Which, although bad for us on the day we went, as we couldn’t get in, is always something I take as a positive sign, especially post-lockdown.

Not far from the Heights of Abraham, there are lots of vegan options on the Fig’s menu, including breakfasts, sandwiches and sweet snacks. It’s dog- and walker-friendly too.

Round the corner from The Fig, an Indian restaurant seemed to be expanding from its initial premises too – so all being well, we’re definitely going to give that place a try next time, as it was clearly a very popular spot!

I’d personally only visit The Fig (if I could get in!) for a quick coffee, but for those times when we’re out with carnivorous friends, there’s still plenty for we vegans to eat too.

Image shows Aqueduct Cottage, Cromford Lock, midway through renovations by the Wildlife Trusts — Aqueduct Cottage, Cromford Lock

The Friendliness of Cromford and Matlock

Image shows landscape of Matlock through autumnal branches of trees — View across Derwent Valley to Willersley Castle

I love this area. Full of fresh air and fun, and really well served by public transport, it’s very eco friendly! And for a part of the country that’s relatively rural, veganism is really gaining traction there. For me this truly demonstrates how much people care about the environment. Switching to veganism in a place that for generations has depended on animal agriculture and mining, is a challenge that can’t be overstated. So we need to applaud – and support – those that do.

I find that each time I go, there is increasing provision for people who share my ethics and a real sensitivity by catering staff to handle queries. There’s pretty much something to eat in every establishment here from chippy to historic inn. Even the mining museum has clearly marked vegan pickles and chutneys to buy and take home!

So I sincerely hope that anyone reading this who still considers everyone in rural Britain a cow-murdering heathen, swiftly takes a visit to Matlock and Cromford to see just how wrong they are.

Tons of good food and drink. Tons of friendly faces. But even better than this – a burgeoning and welcoming vegan scene. I definitely recommend a trip there at your earliest convenience.